The Hanfu Revival Movement: Fashion Trend or Political Statement?

Michael Driver /
Michael Driver / | © Culture Trip

Hanfu is a form of traditional Chinese dress in the midst of a revival, with its young, female wearers ranging from sartorialists fuelled by the fantasy of fashion to Sinocentric activists pushing a political message.

“We draw on the past in the creation of the present and the future,” says Wendy Yu, Chinese entrepreneur, fashion expert and investor in new creative talent. “Today’s youths are exploring Hanfu stylistically. I interpret it as a sign of expression and cultural confidence rather than a nod to ideology.”

The Hanfu is a traditional Chinese robe cut from silk with a self-tie waist belt. It’s often decorated with painterly floral and dragon designs in red and green. Beautifully ornate, it was first worn during the Han Dynasty, which spanned four centuries and has been referred to as China’s ‘golden era’. But when Manchu warriors conquered the Han dynasty in 1644, Hanfu clothing was banned and people were made to wear qipao and the high-collar jackets favoured by the Manchu.

Since 2001, Hanfu has been making a comeback, with its revival gaining global recognition largely due to the rise of the internet. It enabled Hanfu revivalists to connect with one another via discussion boards like Hanwang, or the Han Network. People shared pictures, sketches and tips on how to make the clothing, even posting photos of themselves wearing the robes for everyday activities. A community was born and continues to thrive nearly 20 years on.

A recent report published on Chinese online platform Sohu stated that nine out of ten of today’s Hanfu wearers are female, with an average age of 21. While some have embraced the tradition as a form of escapism and a celebration of the fantasy of fashion, others are using the trend to make a political statement about the oppression of the Han in the 1600s.

“The majority of Hanfu enthusiasts I met characterised themselves as Han nationalists advocating for a greater role for China in the world,” says Professor Kevin Carrico, an expert in modern Chinese history at Macquarie University in Australia and author of The Great Han, which explores the history and ethics surrounding the Hanfu resurgence. “Individual wearers, in my analysis, play out their own fantasies through Hanfu. Nationalism is a type of fantasy and is one of the primary modes of fantasy in the movement.”

He highlights the complications surrounding the movement, explaining how some Han nationalists view the adoption of traditional clothing as a rebellion against Manchu oppression.

“By playing into a sense of victimhood, these narratives have real resonance and create a powerful fantasy of ethnic and self-representation that many people find enjoyable, but which fundamentally misrepresents and contributes negatively to ethnic relations in China today,” he says. “I do think Hanfu has a place in contemporary Chinese culture, but I don’t think it is making a positive contribution to the political or cultural fields.”

Fashion’s cyclical nature means the resurgence of trends is always on the horizon, but there’s cultural depth to the revival of China’s Hanfu that outshines any neon colour palette or ’80s-inspired shoulder pad dominating today’s runway collections. Influential designers including Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent have drawn from traditional Chinese dress to inspire past collections, but Hanfu’s contentious history has deterred designers from making direct links to the tradition.

Yu shares a similar vision; “Clothes are often a form of messaging and communication to the world, but I think that linking Hanfu to politics can distract from learning about ancient Chinese tradition,” she says. “It reminds me of the rich history of our country, which is so united and yet so culturally diverse, and I like that it can have its place in modern society.”

landscape with balloons floating in the air

KEEN TO EXPLORE THE WORLD?

Connect with like-minded people on our premium trips curated by local insiders and with care for the world

Since you are here, we would like to share our vision for the future of travel - and the direction Culture Trip is moving in.

Culture Trip launched in 2011 with a simple yet passionate mission: to inspire people to go beyond their boundaries and experience what makes a place, its people and its culture special and meaningful — and this is still in our DNA today. We are proud that, for more than a decade, millions like you have trusted our award-winning recommendations by people who deeply understand what makes certain places and communities so special.

Increasingly we believe the world needs more meaningful, real-life connections between curious travellers keen to explore the world in a more responsible way. That is why we have intensively curated a collection of premium small-group trips as an invitation to meet and connect with new, like-minded people for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in three categories: Culture Trips, Rail Trips and Private Trips. Our Trips are suitable for both solo travelers, couples and friends who want to explore the world together.

Culture Trips are deeply immersive 5 to 16 days itineraries, that combine authentic local experiences, exciting activities and 4-5* accommodation to look forward to at the end of each day. Our Rail Trips are our most planet-friendly itineraries that invite you to take the scenic route, relax whilst getting under the skin of a destination. Our Private Trips are fully tailored itineraries, curated by our Travel Experts specifically for you, your friends or your family.

We know that many of you worry about the environmental impact of travel and are looking for ways of expanding horizons in ways that do minimal harm - and may even bring benefits. We are committed to go as far as possible in curating our trips with care for the planet. That is why all of our trips are flightless in destination, fully carbon offset - and we have ambitious plans to be net zero in the very near future.

Winter Sale Offers on Our Trips

Incredible Savings

X
Edit article